Great American Beer Festival Day 3 Recap

1,752 breweries from across the United States sent in a total of 7,227 competition entries, a number up ten percent from last year. This year’s ceremony highlighted a subtle shift happening in the industry with a huge majority of the awards going to the new wave of stand-out craft breweries graduating from the industry’s heavily-populated middle of the pack. It was a trend seen throughout the festival this year that saw a lot of festival-goers opting to forego samples of beer from widely-distributed breweries to wait in lines for a taste of the younger, smaller and less accessible breweries generating buzz in the world of craft beer today. The belles of this year’s craft beer ball were Uberbrew from Billings, MT, who took home Small Brewing Company of the Year honors along with four medals, and California-based Figueroa Mountain Brewing Co. whose enthusiastic team got their morning workout in making multiple trips to the stage to collect a gold medal, three bronzes, and several fist bumps from Charlie Papazian.

Other multiple medal winners included Karl Strauss Brewing Company, Portland’s Breakside Brewery, and Brown Truck Brewery, who all walked away with three medals each. And in an unusual twist of awards ceremony drama, multiple medal winners, Fat Head’s Brewery & Saloon, walked off of the awards stage with three medals and the Mid-Size Brewing Company of the Year award engraved with their name, only to have it rescinded later in the evening due to a recognized oversight from the Brewers Association and an application error from Karl Strauss Brewing Co. Originally announced as the Mid-Size Brewpub of the Year award winner, Karl Strauss the brewery (not brewpub as they mistakenly listed on their application) was later announced as the actual Mid-Size Brewery of the Year winner and Fat Head’s was left with their original medals (five total on the day for the company), and sense of humor, which they showcased on social media by sharing a meme of Steve Harvey mimicking the talk show host’s Miss Universe Pageant crowning snafu earlier this year.

But drama aside, the real star of the Saturday morning awards ceremony, was none other than the founder of the Great American Beer Festival and Brewers Association, and the man credited as the father of home brewing, Charlie Papazian, who was celebrated for his many contributions to craft beer and 35 years of the GABF with his very own gold medal presented by the Governor of Colorado, John Hickenlooper.

Following the morning awards ceremony, medal winners reveled in their success and once the doors opened for the afternoon American Homebrewers Association members-only session, huge lines at the winning brewery’s booths immediately formed as people vied for a taste of their gold, silver, and bronze medal-winning beers. Many raced to Figueroa Mountain Brewing’s endcap booth to sample the brewery’s gold medal-winning I Dunkled in My Pants dunkel, and the bronze medal-winning Figtoberfest. Uberbrew, a small Montana brewery and big winner at the fest, was immediately overwhelmed with curious beer drinkers that had no problem waiting in a massive line to get a taste of the celebrated brewery and shake hands with the Uberbrew team. Other big lines formed throughout the session at Russian River, and at Ballast Point, who’s huge and beautifully-crafted booth introduced a whole new year of legal beer drinkers to the iconic Sculpin IPA. Long lines were also found throughout the Meet the Brewer pavilion at places like the Black Project Spontaneous and Wild Ale booth, and at FATE Brewing Company’s flashy and hop-adorned booth which along with their popular Morai Coffee IPA, proved to be a big draw at this year’s festival. Back in the main hall, Avery Brewing Company kept things fresh by pouring samples of their popular (and always growing list of) barrel-aged beers like the Rumpkin, a rum barrel-aged pumpkin ale weighing in at 18-percent ABV, straight from the barrels which were once again the focal point of Avery’s GABF booth this year.

As the members-only session, Saturday afternoon was filled with lederhosen, true beer geeks, and veteran attendees of the festival. Some were snapping photos with a random life-size armadillo covered in hops, others were seriously taking notes on their favorite beers, many were taking advantage of the educational components offered at this year’s fest. As the day turned to night, brewery representatives took a quick moment to refresh their booths and prepare for one final session while the evening session ticket holders descended on the hall to sample the selection of beers that hadn’t been tapped out at previous sessions. The enthusiastic last wave of the festival’s beer drinkers donned wigs and face paint, along with awkward outfit choices and necklaces made up of snack packs and jumbo pretzels. After the last call of the last session of the last evening, industry members, craft beer fans, and all of the party people in between left behind a beer-themed ghost town composed of miscellaneous beer spills, colorful beer can necklaces and a carpet of crushed pretzels to hit the last after-parties of GABF 2016 and to give one more cheers to another year of good beer.

GREAT AMERICAN BEER FESTIVAL RECAP DAY 2

For the first time in a long time, bag pipers are cool again—thanks to the handful of bagpipe-toting, kilt-wearing men and women that parade through the Great American Beer Festival hall every year to commemorate the start of each session. Sober or fully pre-gamed, GABF-goers love it, and a handful choose to pay tribute to those brave men and women that swim against the boozy current every year by donning kilts themselves. But without a doubt, the sound of those super high notes of the bagpipe reverberating through the beer hall is about as close to the real life opening soundtrack to the Hunger Games as it gets. When the bagpipes start to play, it’s every man and woman for themselves, and if there are odds, chances are after the first hour, they will not be in anyone’s favor.

The Friday evening session kicked off in typical fashion, with the doors opening to a less chaotic line of beer aficionados than years past, thanks to better planning by the team at the Brewers Association in the form of more acquired space in the Convention Center hall. Seamlessly, crowds of people dispersed themselves throughout the GABF hall, racing towards festival favorites like Firestone Walker, and The Rare Barrel, whose outrageous line was consistently full of dedicated craft beer fans who quickly drank all of the California-based brewery’s uber-popular Ensorcelled, a dark sour beer aged in oak barrels with an exceptionally balanced hint of raspberry. I easily could have spent my entire evening rotating through The Rare Barrel’s line for a taste of the many excellent sour beers this brewery is making, but I’m a fairly responsible adult, and an equal-opportunity beer drinker, so I pushed on.

Before the standard GABF hall smell of beer naturally fermenting in vessels other than expensive stainless steel tanks, the equally strong smell of cheese hit my nose—momentarily confusing me and making me super hungry at the same time. At this year’s Great American Beer Festival, ticket holders had access to many varieties of cheese, some handed out as free samples at the Haystack Mountain cheese table in the center of the hall, other cheese varieties available after waiting in line for samples at the American Cheese Society booth.

But, of course, in the end it was really the beers that people roaming (most aimlessly) around the Colorado Convention Center were after. My first sip of the second session was Cigar City’sseasonally-appropriate, smooth and delicately spiced Good Gourd Imperial Pumpkin Ale, which paired nicely with the chilly fall Colorado weather. Taking advantage of a momentary lapse in Firestone Walker’s long line, I snagged a taste of the brewery’s Luponic Distortion—a deliciously hop-forward beer that is part of the brewery’s always evolving hop series.

In between sips, I spent a fair amount of time dodging the always curious and full line at Dads and Dudes Breweria— a Colorado brewery serving up a General Washington’s Secret Stash—a cannabis-infused IPA that locals and out-of-towners couldn’t resist the urge to try.

But it was the sour trend that still lingered in the craft beer industry this year. Allagash Brewing Company wowed the true fans of the craft with the Monmouth Red—a Flanders-style Red aged in apple brandy barrels and filled with unique flavor combinations that fans lucky enough to snag a taste of truly savored before heading to the next brewery booth. But sour beers weren’t for everyone this year. “This beer… this beer is too tart!” said one festival-goer, to which his savvy girlfriend replied, “Um…yeah—your asked for the Gose…” And when the ladies weren’t busy correcting their boyfriends on beer styles and proper pronunciations, they were waiting in line to get a picture, and for those who managed to keep their wits about them, a sample of beer from the youngest Hanson brother who was representing the boy band scene of the early 2000s along with the Hanson Brothers Beer Co.—a brewery the famed Hanson brothers founded and operate together in their hometown of Tulsa, Oklahoma. Man bun and all, Zac Hanson graciously smiled for nostalgic fan girls who kept the youngest MMMBoper busy snapping photos and working hard to talk about the beer and his relatively young brewery.

And even though the festival set-up was revamped this year, Oskar Blues Brewery’s annual Silent Disco still remained a highlight for selfie snappers and the rhythmically challenged in their new location in the “Backyard” area near the festival entrance. Life-size Pinner, Dale’s and IPA cans showed of their crafty moves in a sea of people capping off their work week at one of the most beloved beer fests in the country. This year, more than recent years, Oskar Blues brewery and other fellow “big” craft breweries across the U.S. saw somewhat shorter lines, with many beer drinkers opting to wait in the lines of the new batch of “it” breweries making their way onto the scene. Widely-distributed breweries got a little bit of a breather this year, and the less-accessible, new generation of rising craft beer stars got a butt-kicking, which will continue on through the final day of the Great American Beer Festival tomorrow.

Great American Beer Festival Day 1 Recap

Oh, GABF week. For the 35th year, the Great American Beer Festival opened its doors to the tired, the hungry (for pretzels… or basically anything to coat the stomach), and the thirsty masses of craft beer consumers that make the pilgrimage to Denver, Colorado every year to experience the insanity that is one of the top beer festivals in the country. On Thursday, October 6, the doors at the Colorado Convention Center officially opened to beer drinkers, introducing them to more than 800 breweries collectively pouring 3,800 beers and celebrating different beer styles brewed throughout the entire country. As the first session of the festival, Thursday night is filled with hope, and promise, and a solid chunk of people engaging in enthusiastic and somewhat responsible craft beer consumption that mostly falls apart as the festival carries on into Friday and (gasp!) Saturday evening.

When I crossed the threshold into the giant GABF hall this year, I was immediately drawn towards the Dogfish Head booth, where owner and charismatic craft beer enthusiast, Sam Calagione, poured me a version of the brewery’s Alternate Takes series—a beer that Calagione picked as the brew he’d be reaching for to cap off the busy Thursday night session. While in the Dogfish line (which seemed to double every time I blinked) I ran into Ginger Johnson—founder and CEO of Women Enjoying Beerand author of the recently released “How to Market Beer to Women” book—who was snagging a moment with Calagione and grabbing a beer before heading to the Beer Geek Bookstore within the fest to chat more about her book with a healthy-sized group of curious beer geeks looking to spend their dollars appropriately at this year’s GABF.

In between gawking at the long-running lines for brewery’s like Firestone Walker, Lagunitas, and Russian River, I overheard GABF-goers spouting off typical one-liners that you’re likely to hear while cruising around the festival, like: “Is it a microbrewery? Is it a nano brewery? Who fucking knows, bro.” And “that Pilsner was on point, dude.” And my favorite, “How did you like those testicles?” A solid one-liner spoken by chef Dan Lasily from Rebel Restaurant in Denver in the Beer & Food Pavilion—an open-to-the-public section of the festival that educates beer drinkers on food and beer pairings—all while offering a free and seated area to take a breather from the busyness of the GABF hall. Along with brewer Steve Gonzales from Stone Brewing , Lasily put together three beer and food pairings for the Beer & Food Pavilion—the final pairing featuring some tasty Rocky Mountain oysters paired with Stone Brewing’s 08.08.08 Vertical Epic Belgian Strong Ale.

Though quite tasting, and featured as part of an excellent and well thought out pairing, eating a bull’s testicles wasn’t exactly the last taste I wanted to have before night one of the fest ended, so I headed out in search of one last good beer to cleanse and pay amends to my palate. It was the revolving lights of a disco ball that drew me into Boulder Beer Company’s booth, and that’s where I found it—a delicious beer that was the perfect last taste of my evening. Higher in ABV than anticipated, the brewery’s super speciality Spikeberry Saison was flavorful, smooth, and deceiving in a way that only really well-made beer can be.

Farther away, representatives from Austin’s Jester King Brewery stayed busy explaining to GABF-goers that the brewery had run out of their day-one stash within the first hour of the festival, (if you’re attending the Friday and Saturday sessions, add this to the list of brewery lines to get immediately get in upon arrival). And even deeper into the festival, the “Welcome to the Backyard” portion of the fest slowly filled up with beer drinkers making peace with a slower, more relaxed take on an often overwhelming beer festival—displaying various levels of sober and awkwardly drunk at Oskar Blues’Silent Disco set-up and at the other random lawn games set up throughout the beer hall’s “backyard”.

When the last calls reverberated throughout the Colorado Convention Center, beer drinkers, brewery reps, and everyone in between hit the streets of Denver for after-parties thrown by some of the biggest names in the industry. But most didn’t make it past the 1400 Miles mini beer fest and fundraiser that takes place in a parking lot across from the Convention Center’s iconic Blue Bear statue each year. From Wednesday through Saturday night craft beer fans can get a taste of Texas breweries all while supporting the conversation about prostate health. $10 gets you for a day and unlimited tastings, but $30 get’s you in for all four days.

At the end of the day, day one of the Great American Beer Festival felt very mellow—somewhat calculated—as many flaws from previous years where dealt with, and the brewery love—regardless of size or financial status—was evening distributed throughout the maze that is the Great American Beer Festival floor. The addition of the Meet the Brewers rows and the many educational events easily accessible throughout the GABF floor really reflected a industry-wide push to highlight and focus on the breweries and beer values that ignited the craft beer industry in the first place. Your friendly neighborhood, independent brewery is here to stay—at the folks behind the steering wheel that is the more than $55 billion craft beer industry want to remind you of that.

How To Take a Road Trip Without A Car

Taking the Great American Road Trip is a rite of passage for travelers, but spending hours behind the wheel isn’t for everyone. If exploring the vast U.S. is on your bucket list, but driving isn’t, check out our tips for road tripping — sans car.

By Train

Amtrak Vacations/Facebook

Train travel has been highly romanticized since its beginning. Today, several transit companies offer itineraries with the road tripper in mind.

Since 1971, Amtrak has been offering service that connects travelers to 46 states and to a handful of destinations in Canada. Though it was created as a means for point-to-point travel, Amtrak now offers vacation packages that are searchable by route, departing city, destination, and vacation types. From touring America’s national parks, to speciality trips like the Blues and Bayou trip through the historic music cities of Memphis, New Orleans, and Chicago, Amtrak offers it. Package pricing typically includes roundtrip fare, a mix of Amtrak accommodations and accommodations in visiting cities, plus the cost of some additional tour, sightseeing, and dining fees.

Can’t quite decide where your road trip adventures will take you? Vacations By Rail offers a variety of travel packages in a wide range of categories, based on season, price, location, and number of travelers in your party. Hop on board for a coast-to-coast trip, or connect with nature on trains to Alaska, the Grand Canyon, the Rocky Mountains of Colorado, and more. Vacations By Rail also offers river and ocean cruises, if you want to mix in a little time on the water.

If the idea of a road trip conjures up thoughts of communing with nature and exploring the wild western frontier, then America By Rail might be for you. Although the company offers rail tours throughout the United States and into Canada, their most enticing trips are to the National Parks, including Yellowstone, the Rocky Mountains, and the Grand Canyon. Because these tours sell out, it’s best to make reservations fairly far in advance.

By Bus

Trek America Travel/Facebook

Perhaps the most rugged option, bussing your way across the country gives you the authentic road trip experience, while someone else does the driving.

Companies like Greyhound offer a vast network of bus stations that make it easy and affordable to access cities across the country. On the road, you can kick back and relax in a comfy seat with free WiFi, and charge your electronics while you’re at it. There’s no guide and no itinerary with this option, but if you’re looking to have a piece of the freedom that comes with driving across the country, Greyhound is the best option for you.

If you’d prefer a bit more structure, Trek America’s “Choose Your Adventure” packages offer the thrill of exploring the unknown, with a group. Especially great for solo travelers, the company has camping trips, winter tours, budget trips, and more — all designed to help you meet new travel buddies along the way.

By Water

American Cruise Lines/Facebook

If the water calls to you, there are a number of ways to take in breathtaking views of the country by boat.

American Cruise Lines offers multiple river-based trips within the U.S. Take your pick of a cruise on the Lower Mississippi, the Upper Mississippi, or just explore the entire river. They also offer cruises along the Cumberland River, the Ohio River, through New Orleans, and more.

From barge cruises to river boats, USA River Cruises traverse the waterways of the Great Lakes, the Pacific Northwest, and the scenic waterways along the east coast. Packaged trips are available and come with a hearty itinerary that showcases the countryside along some of the most photo-worthy bodies of water in the U.S. Keep an eye out for group rates and early bird pricing.

Charlie Papazian Reminisces on 35 Years of GABF

The founder of Great American Beer Festival talks to 5280 about how the event has grown from humble beginnings. 

BY

• TYRA SUTAK

OCTOBER 4 2016, 1:00 PM

Thirty-five years ago, a relatively unknown Charlie Papazian—home-brewing enthusiast and founder of the Association of Brewers (now the Brewers Association)—changed the country’s beer culture forever when he hosted the first Great American Beer Festival in Colorado. Only 20 breweries poured at the first GABF in 1982, and Papazian and his team were still trying to sell tickets the day of the festival. Today, a ticket to the fest is highly sought after, with the event generally selling out within hours and bringing roughly 60,000 attendees to the Denver area for three beer-soaked days each fall. Today, Papazian is a craft beer celebrity. As the author of The Complete Joy of Home Brewing, he's widely credited as the father of home brewing. And at GABF, you can often find him generously accepting requests for photos and doling out his signature fist bump to event attendees.

We caught up with Papazian to take a walk down memory lane and get a sneak peek into the 35th year of the Great American Beer Festival, which takes place October 6–8. 

5280: What inspired you to start the Great American Beer Festival.

Charlie Papazian: I had traveled to England in 1981 to go to the Great British Beer Festival, which I had been invited to judge. When I walked into the hall, I was kind of awestruck with the concept of a national festival to celebrate beer. So I brought up the idea of doing a Great American Beer Festival. There were only 40 breweries in the whole country at that time. I pursued the idea with some friends and we figured out how to find the unique beers from the few breweries that existed. We started in 1981, and the whole thing came to fruition in 1982.

What was year one of the festival like?

There were only 20 breweries the first year and only four microbreweries. We had about 800 attendees, and we were still selling tickets the day of. We never really sold out in those early days. It was a one-day event on June 4, 1982 in Boulder. To get the beer here, there was a beer importer and distributor based in the Boulder/Denver area who had a trucking company. He volunteered to drive his truck to pick up beer in different parts of the country. There was only one truck run. It started somewhere in the New Jersey area, and somehow we got the beer here. It was supposed to be here two weeks before the festival, but it got here the day before. We were kind of on pins and needles that first year.

How has the GABF changed in the past 35 years?

The logistical aspects of the event have changed. The security, the number of beers, the thousands of volunteers—that all has changed. What hasn’t changed is the spirit of adventure that the festival presents to the people who come. Yes it’s a festival about beer, and the culture of craft beer in particular, but what does change is that we present the festival in our current year. We move the culture of the beer festival along with the culture of beer in America. We have GABF apps and entertaining things that are of interest today. We always try to make the event fresh while still focusing on the beers.

What is your favorite part of the festival?

It’s always exciting on Thursday when the doors first open. The electricity in the room is always a favorite of mine. It’s fun to wander the hall and discover things and people that I’ve never heard about, or I’ve heard about and never met. Things happen in a good way, and you meet the people, the beers, and the breweries that you’re supposed to meet. It’s always a great experience. I also love finding beers and beer styles that I’ve never had before, and innovative approaches to brewing. 

What beer trends and 35-year celebration nods should attendees be on the look out for at this year’s fest?

I’m pretty certain that there will soon be a successful trend of really flavorful, yet refreshing lagers, whether they’re European style or have American accents, from light or pale to golden or amber lagers that are not so high in alcohol content—somewhere less than six percent. And hoppy lagers, as well. I think that trend will be huge. And there will be some displays and exhibits in the BeerX:Craftbeer.com Experience Booth in the Meet the Brewers area, where we’ll have memorabilia from past beer festivals. 

Easy Northeast Getaway: Prince Edward Island

Prince Edward Island is the crown jewel of Canada’s Maritime Provinces, thanks to pristine beaches, fresh local seafood, and charming 19th century architecture. Only slightly larger than the state of Delaware, the island is easy to navigate in a short period of time, which is good because there’s a lot to see. From festivals celebrating the island’s dining and music scenes, to lighthouse tours and a look inside the birthplace of one Canada’s most famous authors — there’s a little something for everyone in PEI.

What to Do

House of Anne of Green Gables/flickr/Barney Moss 

Most places you’ll want to visit in PEI is no more than a two-hour drive from the island’s capital city of Charlottetown. So rent a car, make Charlottetown your home-base for your stay, and head out each morning to explore a different region.

Start out with a visit to PEI’s most popular tourist attraction — the houses and landscape that inspired famed Canadian writer Lucy Maud Montgomery, of the Anne of Green Gables book series. From Charlottetown, head northwest towards the Green Gables Shore and the tiny town of New London where you’ll find the birthplace of Lucy Maud Montgomery — a late-1800s home filled with the late author’s personal letters and belongings. From there, head to the Anne of Green Gables Museum, originally the home of Montgomery’s aunt and uncle, which inspired the setting of the novel. After touring the house, take a stroll through the nearby woods and shores of the real-life Lake of Shining Waters. Entry is $5.50 for adults and $2 for children ages 6 to 16. For an additional $6 per person, visitors can take a horse-drawn carriage ride around the grounds. Finish out your Anne of Green Gables-themed day with a visit to Cavendish. The city is full of Anne-inspired shops, restaurants, and amusement parks and the Green Gables Heritage Place. There’s a $7.80 fee to enter the site, but once in, visitors can tour Anne of Green Gables’ home, enjoy a picnic, and take a stroll down Lovers Lane. Swing by Sutherland’s Restaurant on the way back to Charlottetown for a bowl of fresh PEI Blue Mussels ($10) overlooking the water.

Terre Rouge/Facebook

Next, head east to explore the island’s iconic lighthouses and sandy beaches. A little more than an hour drive from Charlottetown, East Point Lighthouse boasts views of the Atlantic Ocean and the mountainous shores of Nova Scotia. Finish off your visit with a bowl of lobster mac ‘n’ cheese at the lighthouse cafe. As you make the loop back to Charlottetown, you’ll pass the entrance to the Basin Head Provincial Park — home to a gorgeous beach where you can rent stand up paddle boards or just grab a chair and enjoy the afternoon sun. Stop at roadside farm stands and art galleries on your way back to town.

Last, spend a day exploring the historic city of Charlottetown. Start the morning with breakfast and a cup of coffee on the patio of the Receiver Coffee Co. in Queen Square, Charlottetown’s historic center. From there, take a self-guided tour of the city’s historic buildings, including St. Dunstan’s Basilica, which originally opened in 1907; the Province House, where the Legislative Assembly of Prince Edward Island has held meetings since 1847; and the Port-a-la-Joye-Fort Amherst, which dates back to the 1700s. After your tour, order PEI oysters and fish and chips at Brakish in downtown Charlottetown. In the evening, watch cruise ships sail in and out of the harbor, or wander the city’s main thoroughfare, stopping at Cows Creamery for homemade ice cream and The Guild theater (currently hosting Anne & Gilbert The Musical). Before your visit to Charlottetown is over, be sure to have a meal at Terre Rouge, a farm-to-table restaurant adding a modern touch to the island’s traditional ingredients.

Where to Stay

Rodd Hotel

Prince Edward Island is home to many historic B&Bs, cottages, and hotels — the majority of which offer waterfront views and local seafood restaurants on-site. We recommend the Dundee Arms Inn, a former Queen Anne-revival mansion converted into a 22-room boutique hotel in downtown Charlottetown, and the Rodd Charlottetown, built in 1932, which combines old-world architecture with modern amenities and has a rooftop patio where guests can watch electric sunsets.

Getting There

Regular flights to and from the Charlottetown airport via Air Canada make travel to Prince Edward Island simple. From the airport, it’s a 15-minute cab ride to downtown Charlottetown (cabs operate around the flight schedule, so it shouldn’t be hard to catch one after you arrive). If a road trip is more your style, pack up the car and drive through New Brunswick and over the eight-mile Confederation Bridge. This architectural masterpiece crosses a vast waterway, connecting New Brunswick to Prince Edward Island. The island is also reachable by ferry from Nova Scotia, landing in Wood Island, PEI. The scenic trip is roughly 75 minutes and is $71 round-trip for a vehicle and passengers.

The Four-Hour Layover: Montréal

Montréal is a must-visit — even if you only have a few hours to spare. With a history that dates back to 1642, Canada’s second largest city is vibrant and diverse; it’s filled with great food and proud locals willing to help you find your way around. From the best place to try its famous poutine, to climbing to the highest lookout point, check out these tips for making the most of a short layover in Montréal.

Explore Old Montréal

Inside Notre Dame/Tyra Sutak

Old Montréal is the historic heart of the city, with a mixture of 17th century architecture and charming cafés and shops. From the airport, grab a cab and head straight to the Notre-Dame Basilica. Built in the 1820s, the basilica is a stunning example of dramatic Gothic Revival architecture, but the real beauty lies on the inside. For $5, visitors can enter the basilica and see the delicate buttresses, massive pipe organ, and turquoise-colored ceiling painted with thousands of 24-karat gold stars. From there, grab a coffee from Crew, a cafe and co-working space housed in the former Royal Bank of Canada building from the 1920s. The gold-and-white relief ceilings and the original teller windows have been pristinely preserved. If you’d rather stay on the move, place your order online for pick-up (we recommend the stuffed banana and chocolate croissant). Old Montréal also borders the magnificent Saint Lawrence River, so you can take your coffee and pastry spend the rest of your layover strolling along the picturesque riverwalk.

Stretch Your Legs on Mount Royal

View from Old Montreal/Tyra Sutak

The grand centerpiece of Montréal is Mount Royal — a small mountain from which the city received its name. Mount Royal is composed of three peaks, the highest reaching 764 feet. At the top of the mountain, visitors are rewarded with the best views of Montréal’s cityscape, Mount Royal Park, and a close-up of the Mount Royal Cross — a 103-foot-tall illuminated cross installed in 1924. Mount Royal is a popular place for hiking and biking, and it is the perfect place to stretch your legs and see the city all at the same time. From Pierre Elliott Trudeau International Airport, take a cab to Maison Smith — the entry to point to Mount Royal Park, a nearly 500-acre green space designed by Frederick Law Olmsted, co-designer of New York City’s Central Park. From there, it’s a short hike to the Kondiaronk Belvedere — an overlook at the front of the Mount Royal Chalet where widespread views of Montréal and the Saint Lawrence River await. Before retrieving a cab to go back to the airport, grab a salad, sandwich, or even a refreshing bowl of ice cream at the mountaintop Café des Amis.

Fuel Up with a Local Brew and Poutine

Facebook/La Banquise

Poutine is Canada’s comfort food and gift to the world. Since the dish — composed of French fries topped with warm gravy and cheese — originated in Quebec, Montréal has some of the best you’ll find. The city is also home to a booming beer scene and more than 30 breweries. For the best of both worlds, grab a cab and make your way to La Banquise. Located in downtown Montréal and open 24 hours a day, La Banquise serves more than 30 kinds of poutine — which include everything from the classic style topped with cheese curds, to a variation with pulled pork, creamy coleslaw, and sour cream. Choose from a dozen Canadian beers on tap to wash down this gooey, fried deliciousness before heading back to the airport to catch the next leg of your trip.

Sips: Ska Brewing Releases the First All-Colorado Certified Beer

In May of 2016, Durango-based Ska Brewing Company released the Hop Ivy All Colorado Ale—a craft beer made entirely with ingredients grown and sourced in the Centennial State. The easy-drinking ale is comprised of malts from the Colorado Malting Company in Alamosa; Chinook and Nugget hops from Simply Grown Hops based in Palisade; yeast from the Brewing Institute in Woodland Park; and fresh snow melt from the nearby San Juan Mountains. Even the 12-ounce cans the beer is packaged and sold in come from the Ball Beverage Package plant in Golden. Weighing in a just over six percent ABV, Hop Ivy’s beautiful amber color and hop-forward characteristics are the result of much research and hard work.

“We try to pay more attention to local because we want to do something that benefits our neighbors,” says Ska’s longtime head brewer, Thomas Larsen. “We get a lot of support from our community and we wanted to give that back.”

Initially created as a seasonally brewed, fresh-hop beer, Larsen and his team struggled to find a way to make Hop Ivy a year-round offering. Colorado’s hop farms (which are few in number to begin with) don’t tend to offer hops in a form other than freshly-picked cones, and those are only available during the short harvest window every fall. But all of that changed when Simply Grown Hops began to pelletize its hops—a process of converting the freshly picked whole hops into dried pellet form. Pelletized hops can be stored for longer periods of time, allowing Ska to add bitterness and flavor to the brew year round.

With Colorado-grown hop pellets in play, Ska added Hop Ivy to its year-round line-up of beers. Upon its release, Hop Ivy earned the platinum certification status from the Real Colorado Beer Project, an organization dedicated to helping highlight Colorado breweries that go above and beyond to support local businesses and ingredients.

Craft beer aficionados can grab a pint of Hop Ivy on tap or in six-pack form at the Durango tasting room and at Ska accounts throughout Colorado.

225 Girard St., Durango, 970-247-5792

How To GABF Like a Pro

On the last day of the Great American Beer Festival, circa 2014, I met two grown men who enthusiastically, and with little shame, confessed to me that they had both dipped into their kids’ college funds to pay for the once-in-a-lifetime GABF weekend trip to Denver they were currently soaking up the last few hours of. They spent weeks planning out their trip, from the local breweries they would visit, to the beer bars they would hit up, to a tactical game-plan to thrive in the chaos inside of the Colorado Convention Center where the fest takes place. All of their planning paid off. These guys made the most of their short weekend, creating some serious stories to tell their kids when the time came to explain to them the importance of scholarships…

With so much going on during the week of the fest in Denver, we took a cue from our favorite beer-loving bad dads and put together this list to help you tackle GABF week like a pro.

Getting Around Denver
First off, if you haven’t booked your hotel room or suckered your long-lost third cousin that lives in Denver to put you up for the weekend, stop reading this article now and go do it. You’ll thank us later. Secondly—make plans to stash the car—you won’t need it during GABF week. The majority of the happening beer bars and breweries offering pre and post-fest events are within walking distance from the convention center. Those that aren’t are usually a short cab or Uber ride across town.

Inside of the Festival
The folks at the Brewers Association, the masterminds behind the Great American Beer Festival, are kind enough to make up some pretty thorough and accessible maps to help you track down that beer you’ve been dying to try. Use the map. While you’re waiting in the fairly large line to get into the fest (which starts to form about an hour before the festival kicks off), take a look at the map and get a game plan together. You already know which breweries you’re stoked to check out, so head to their booths first to try to beat the lines. With over 800 breweries represented at the festival and more than 3,500 beers being poured, that map is like a bible for the serious craft beer drinker.

But snagging a coveted ticket into the fest isn’t just about spending five hours sampling as many beers as your tiny liver can handle. Thanks to the Brewers Association, the festival also includes cool educational components, beer and food pairings, and some wacky and fun traditions that you don’t want to miss—like Silent Disco—an Oskar Blues Brewery-sponsored event inside of the convention center. Making a total fool out of yourself dancing to oldies music that only you and the other twenty people donning special headphones on the silent disco dance floor can hear is as much of a GABF rite of passage as dropping your tasting cup and getting booed by hundreds of strangers. Check your map to find the Silent Disco booth and hours for all three days. If you’re a legit beer nerd, like, you religiously brew it at your house on a regular basis, swing by the American Homebrewers Association booth to talk shop and learn new tips from fellow beer nerds. And if you’re looking for the ultimate beer experience, check out BeerX: The CraftBeer.com Experience which infuses education and entertainment into the three-day fest. From rubbing elbows with the brewers and brewery owners in the industry that have garnered celebrity status, to learning how to evaluate beers like a certified GABF judge, to deconstructingthe brewing process and sampling rare beers, you’ll find it at BeerX.

For a full schedule of GABF events and a list of participating breweries, visit: www.greatamericanbeerfestival.com.

Best Hangout Spots Outside of the Fest:
Every year during GABF week, breweries from all over the country work to schedule tap takeovers, tastings, and killer events to keep beer drinkers occupied and fully hydrated outside of the festival hours. If you’re looking to fill up your schedule during festival off-hours, head to one of these following spots:

Euclid Hall: Only a short walk from the Convention Center, Euclid Hall is one of the city’s most popular beer bars thanks to a killer food menu and an exceptional beer menu offered year-round.

Star Bar: If you end up at Star Bar, be prepared to belt out a beer-fueled karaoke rendition of a Justin Bieber song on the bar’s tiny stage. Star Bar is great for late night fun and is one of the go-to spots for off-duty beer reps to hang out throughout the week.

Falling Rock: The OG of Denver beer bars, the Falling Rock Taphouse runs a GABF countdown year-round and is one of the top places in town to find a huge selection of beers on tap—which mostly include rare, aged, and specialty offerings during GABF week.

Avanti: The new kid on the block, Avanti Food & Beverage is upping the game this year by hosting beer events every night of GABF week featuring a who’s who line-up of craft breweries throughout the country. Avanti is also a collective eatery and houses seven different restaurant options.

Freshcraft: At the bar at this local craft beer-lovers hangout, you’ll find over 125 craft beers to choose from, and in the kitchen, you’ll find a menu made up of the kind of amazing comfort food that will help you survive a week of heavy boozing.

Don’t-Miss GABF Week Events in Denver: 

There are so many. But here are a few of our favorites:

Tuesday, October 4 | 6 pm

What the Funk!? Invitational

If you really want to pregame for GABF, check out this boozy event celebrating all things barrel-aged. A mini beer festival of sorts, What the Funk!? will feature tastings of barrel-aged beers from around the world. Tickets are $100 and can be found along with more info on the event www.wtfinvitational.com.

Wednesday, October 5 | 8:30 pm

Upslope Brewing Co. Tap Takeover at Freshcraft

Curious as to what a Smell My Hand Long Pepper Black IPA tastes like? Yeah? You’re braver than we are—but you’ll have your chance to taste this Upslope/Freshcraft collaboration beer on Wednesday night of GABF week. Upslope’s also bring a Bourbon Barrel Pumpkin Wine and a barrel-aged dark Belgian, along with a handful of the taproom favorites. Stay tuned to www.freshcraft.com for more details.

Thursday, October 6 | 7 pm to 12 am

Epic Brewing’s Fourth Annual 50 Firkin Fiasco

A special event thrown by Epic Brewery in Denver where the brewer’s bust out 50 unique firkins for your tasting pleasure. Squeeze into the Epic tasting room, brewery, barrel-aging space, or anywhere where there’s a tiny slice of room to rub elbows with industry folks and taste some unique beers. Keep an eye out at www.epicbrewing.com for tickets to go on sale.

Friday, October 7 | 10 pm to 1 am

Oskar Blues Post-Session Tap Takeover and Live Music

The biggest post-session parties go down on Friday night, and Colorado-based, Oskar Blues Brewery, gets in the action every year by taking over all of the taps at the Blake Street Vault and setting local rock band, Interstate Stash Express loose to rattle the bricks in the old downtown Denver building. No cover for this party, but expect to be sipping on some high-ABV, specialty Oskar Blues beers. www.blakestreetvault.com.

Saturday, October 8 | 8 pm

Avery Brewing Co. Robe One Out Party at Star Bar

GABF week is hard, and the nobody understands that more than the folks at Avery Brewing Company. Back again this year, Avery is throwing a big ol’ post-session robe party at Star Bar where the first 30 people in robes through the door get a free Avery beer. No cover for this crazy party, and feel free to throw on a pair of slippers to get extra cozy while you sip on some Avery taproom-only releases and redefine the term, “nightcap”. Stay tuned to www.averybrewing.com for more info.

Easy Northwest Getaway: Bainbridge Island, Washington

The views alone are worth the visit to Bainbridge Island. Surrounded by brilliant blue water in the heart of Washington’s Puget Sound, the island offers a front row seat to Seattle’s iconic cityscape, majestic Mount Rainer, and the Cascade and Olympic mountain ranges.

Once dubbed the second-best place to live in the United States by CNN/Money Magazine, Bainbridge Island has also become a home-away-from-home for thousands of visitors each year, thanks to a thriving outdoor recreation scene and an abundance of eateries and wineries. Find out why you should make this breathtaking Pacific Northwest town your go-to for an easy weekend getaway.

What to Do

Facebook/Pegasus Coffee House 

Start your morning off with a visit to the Blackbird Bakery — a favorite among locals and tourists alike for its freshly baked pastries and all-vegetarian lunch. Grab a cup of sustainably grown coffee before heading out to explore the island’s parks and trails. Head to the Grand Forest West or the Gazzam Lake Preserve for a more strenuous hike, or stroll along the western loop of the Eagle Harbor Waterfront Trail that leads through historic sites, the downtown hub, and the marina.

In the afternoon, stop by Mora Iced Creamery for a scoop (or two!) of one of the 40-plus flavors, including blackberry, lavender, and dulce de leche with shaved chocolate. Since ice cream before dinner is always acceptable on vacation, follow up your sugar rush with a meal at Harbour Public House, located in a historic waterfront house just outside of downtown Bainbridge. The restaurant is known for its selection of local seafood — all for less than $20 per plate. Complete your meal with one of the many craft beers and ciders on tap.

Tyee Charters/Facebook 

Anytime you spend a weekend on an island, you want to hit the water. The Puget Sound has some of the best fishing waters in the region. We recommend Tyee Charters‘ salmon fishing trips ($185 per person), which run daily and include six hours of fishing plus bait and tackle, a day fishing license, and fishing tips from the pros. After spending the morning on the water, head to Pegasus Coffee House for a local, farm-fresh lunch and a cup of coffee.

From there, check out the island’s brewery and/or distilleries, including the Bainbridge Organic Distillers who tout “grain to glass” spirits. Four of the island’s wineries — Eagle Harbor Wine Company, Eleven Winery, Island Vintners, and the Harbor Square Wine Shop and Tasting Room — are located a short walk from the ferry and can be seen in one afternoon. Finish your evening downtown at Cafe Nola, which highlights seasonal ingredients and local seafood in dishes like halibut with sugar snap peas and Alaska salmon with avocado and mustard greens.

Where to Stay

Courtesy Eagle Harbor Inn 

Bainbridge Island is home to a handful of charming bed and breakfasts, cottages, inns, and hotels. A 15-minute walk from the ferry terminal, The Eagle Harbor Inn has eight different lodging options — all of which are around $200 per night — and requires a minimum two-night stay. If you’re on a tighter budget when visiting Bainbridge, the Best Western Plus is located a short car ride from the ferry and rates during the fall months begin at $150 per night. If you don’t mind being a bit farther from the center of town, Heyday Farm — nestled into the south end of the island — is an adorable working farm with four bedrooms for rent in an updated farmhouse originally built in the 1890s. Additional lodging options are available on the farm grounds, too, with nightly rates from $139 per night.

Getting There

Bainbridge Island is a 35-minute ferry ride through Elliott Bay from downtown Seattle. If you’re traveling with a vehicle, the ferry ride from Seattle to Bainbridge Island will cost you approximately $15 to $20. If you’re carting just yourself and your luggage, the fee will be closer to $10 one way. Bainbridge Island is still accessible by bridge, as well. Visit bainbridgeisland.com for directions on how to get to the island by car.

PAPER BIRD GETS BACK TO ROOTS IN FIFTH FULL-LENGTH ALBUM

TYRA SUTAKSEPTEMBER 13, 2016

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Ten years ago, Paper Bird, a six-piece indie band from Denver burst onto the Colorado music scene—riding the rapidly growing local sound waves along with bands like Nathaniel Ratliff and the Night Sweats, and the Lumineers—out past the state lines and on to the national stage. In the past decade, the band has released four full-length albums, countless EPs, and have toured the country—spreading their unique sound of heavy harmonies blended mostly with acoustic instrumentals to an always-growing fan base that has stayed with the band—even through changes to the group’s longtime line-up. But change proved to be just what Paper Bird needed to release their latest full-length album and the self-proclaimed strongest representation of the band’s evolving sound since their inception all of those years ago.

On September 9, Paper Bird released their fifth full-length album—a self-titled album co-produced by the legendary John Oates, a fellow Colorado resident and record label-mate who was more than willing to help the band refine their sound. The album is composed of eleven songs that showcase the powerful blend of vocals from the band’s three female singers and songwriting that serves as both a statement to the band’s past and future. The lyrics are uplifting and catchy. The beats are driven by an electric guitar and a hard-working drum kit, but the band’s greatest instrument continues to be the harmonies they create with a variety of vocals that piece themselves together to form one musically complete puzzle. Paper Bird marks the groups’s first new music released in three years, and the first created with newest band member, singer Carleigh Aikins. Like original members and the two other lead vocalists of the group, Sarah Anderson and Genevieve Patterson, Carleigh’s vocals are vintage—a throwback to some of the iconic female rock vocalists from the 60s and 70s—moving from strong and raspy to sweet and sultry all in the same breath. With the 2013 departure of perhaps the band’s most notable member, Esmé Patterson, Paper Bird took their time filling the space left in the group—taking time to revisit their sound in the process. With the addition of Aikins voice and songwriting, and the introduction of new life in the band, Paper Bird set forth in writing and recording new music, music they felt confident represented the sound and songs that defined the new line-up and the group’s original passion.

“The process around making this record was a process of defining ourselves in a lot of ways,” said Genny Patterson, Paper Bird vocalist and the band’s keyboard player. “We let go of what we thought we had to do, and went in a direction that we thought was the best.”

That direction, Patterson says, is more rock but with a continued focus on songwriting—a task performed by every member of the group.

Spiraling momentum from the band’s beginnings quickly set Paper Bird on a course that the group worked to reroute back to their roots with the release of their latest album, noting the addition of Aikins as a big inspiration in the process.

“Carleigh brought her amazing sounds and she has such a unique singing style. It’s really great and it’s crazy that she fits in this band. We’re a bunch of weirdos and she just jumped right in from day one.”

This fall, Paper Bird will spread their new sound on a national tour with stops in Nashville for Americana Fest, and in Denver for a Colorado album release party at the Bluebird Theater on November 25.

And what’s next for the band past that? Patterson doesn’t know, but the excitement of the band’s revival and future lace her every word.

“We’re just excited to put the record out, we want people to have this music,” she says—reflecting on the past as she thinks about the future. “We don’t know what’s over the next ridge, but I feel like we’re finally getting to the top of it.”

Ask A Guide

Fish tales. You’ve heard plenty, but with more than 6,000 miles of rivers and streams and 322 miles of designated Gold Medal waters, those tall tales of tremendous fish coming out of the state of Colorado are (mostly) true. To really get the scoop on the places to find the biggest fish, the most gorgeous stretches of river and an all around good day on the water, we reached out to the professionals who know the rivers in this state best. These fly-fishing guides have seen it all, fished it all and they are still willing to share some tips and tricks for the best fly fishing here in Colorado.

Roaring Fork River

Guide: Raphael Fasi, Gone Fishing Colorado

Fasi, a fly fishing guide in the Snowmass/Aspen area for the past five years, knows how to find the sweet spots on the river between Snowmass Creek and the town of Aspen. “Most of the the locations in this area are accessible along the Rio Grande Bike Trail (see page 11), so you can ride your bike up and down the trail and fish as you please. The Roaring Fork River is one of the last true freestone rivers in Colorado. The structure of the river changes from pocket water to deep, slow runs, and really changes and transitions as it flows down the valley.” And according to Fasi, those pockets and runs are teeming with rainbow, brown, cutthroat and Snake River cutthroat Trout—the biggest ones holding in the deep runs—waiting for a prince nymph with the perfect drift. gonefishingcolorado.com

Yampa River

Guide: Jarrett Yager, Bucking Rainbow Outfitters

“My favorite thing about fishing the Yampa is that there is always a chance that the next fish you catch could potentially be your new personal record,” says Jarrett Yager, who’s been guiding on the river for six years. In Yager’s experience, catching trout that measure 30-plus inches in length is very common on the Yampa, with some fisherman occasionally reeling in frightening northern pike of 40-plus inches. To find the best holes, Yager suggests trying the tailwaters below Stagecoach Reservoir or dimply hitting up the public waters right in the town of Stamboat Springs. “In the fall as the brown trout begin to spawn, the fishing on the Yampa only gets better. Focus on fishing the runs and drop offs where a lot of excess food is being pushed.” And be sure to add plenty of tricos, caddis flysandblue winged olives to your fly box this fall. buckingrainbow.com

Blue River

Guide: Andrew Petersen, The Colorado Angler

For longtime guide, Andrew Petersen (22-plus years guiding the Blue), the best thing about fishing this popular water in the heart of Summit County is the striking landscape of the entire valley, away from the I-70 crowds. “On some stretches of the river, you really feel like you’re very far removed from the city.” But the fishing is good right under the bridge in front of the outlet stores just off I-70, too (just get there early.) “The town stretch of river and the Palmer Gulch area are fishing well right now, but some of the best fishing in the state is happening in Green Mountain Canyon on the lower section of the Blue.” For prime access to the sweet spots on this river, Petersen suggests heading out early in the week, in the early morning or early evening for some quiet time on the river. “Nymphs are always the best approach first, but caddis, green drakes, blue winged olives and pale morning dun flies work well, too. Midge pupa and larva flies are also fishing well.” thecoloradoangler.com

Big Thompson River

Guide: Stephen Jacob, Kirks Flyshop

Stephen Jacobs has been guiding on the Big Thompson River for 11 years, which means he witnessed the effects of the flood of 2013. “The Big Thompson has a good, healthy, self-sustaining trout population, even post-flood.” But to find the best fishing, Jacob says you’ll have to work for it. “If you’re willing to walk a mile, you’ll find a remote, more enjoyable experience,” he says—which is best in early April to May when the rainbow trout are spawning and feeling sassy. “When fishing the lower Thompson, the tailwater is very productive and best fished with dry flies in the summer. I personally like to find a spot the first five or six miles down into the canyon.” When fishing the upper Thompson in Rocky Mountain National Park, the guides at Kirks Flyshop saddle up horses and take pack llamas to remotes sites—some of the best found above Glacier Creek. Jacob’s fly box is usually stocked with ants, beetles, caddis and pale morning duns to reel in the rainbow, brown and brook trout in the river. kirksflyshop.com

Boxwood Gulch on the South Platte River

Guide: Randy Hicks, Rocky Mountain Anglers

According to longtime guide, Randy Hicks, Boxwood Gulch is the place to go for an ego-stoking day on the river. “It’s all smiles. The fishing is so spectacular that we are able to really teach here, too, with success.” At least six species of fish can be found in the private waters of Boxwood Gulch, most weighing in at five pounds or heavier. “Pine squirrel leeches, copper johns, iron lotus, rainbow warriors, prince nymphs, girdle bugs and stoneflies all do well here. These fish are predators, larger fish looking for a big meal.” There are also stretches of public waters of the north fork of the South Platte, and Hicks says you’ll find the best ones downstream of Bailey towards the confluence of the South Platte proper. rockymtanglers.com

DOWN ‘N DIRTY: COLEMAN CARLSBAD FAST PITCH DARKROOM TENT

DOWN ‘N DIRTY: COLEMAN CARLSBAD FAST PITCH DARKROOM TENT

TYRA SUTAKAUGUST 23, 2016

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DOWN 'N DIRTY: COLEMAN CARLSBAD FAST PITCH DARKROOM TENT

90%Overall Score

Durability 85%

Versatility 85%

Comfort 95%

Features 95%

Value 90%

There are two types of campers in this world: the kind that get a thrill from strapping everything they need to survive in the wilderness for days on end to their back, and the kind that usually make carrying the full cooler of beer the first priority when pulling up to a campsite for the weekend. The Coleman Carlsbad Fast Pitch tent is definitely made for the latter—not exactly light in weight—but full of features that bring a little bit of comfort to a weekend of car camping with friends and family. I initially broke out the 4-person version of this tent (it’s also sold in a 6-person option) for a late-summer road trip up the Pacific Coast from San Francisco to southern Washington. It was a great idea in theory. Nights camping out under the stars on the beach, with a few spent sleeping among the giants in Redwoods National Park and at other random outdoor accommodations we could find along the way. The days were deceitful of the nights—mostly filled with sunshine and dry weather—while the nights consistently left every piece of gear and clothing I had in my road trip arsenal saturated with moisture. The dampness spread far and wide and left its mark on the majority of the items I carted along on my trip—everything except the tent. The Carlsbad WeatherTec design helped keep the inside of the tent nice and dry at night, easily shedding the lingering nighttime moisture from the exterior each morning before we packed it up and stored it back in the tent bag. The tent boasts a “Fast Pitch” technology, which Coleman says makes assembly 50% easier and faster than other Coleman tents. All together, the Carlsbad uses six components for assembly: four tent poles, the one-piece tent, and a rainfly for extra weather protection. Anyone that’s ever set up a tent can easily put this one up, and with fewer pieces to assemble and insta-clip suspension, the time spent on tent set-up was pretty minimal—which left us with plenty of time to sit back and enjoy the insanely beautiful sunsets over the Pacific Ocean. The tent was spacious, easily fitting two of us with plenty of extra room, and comfortably fitting up to four people complete with sleeping bags, air mattresses, and all of the other convinces of home.

Pros: Although it seems like an unnecessary feature, the Carlsbad’s Dark Room technology is actually really wonderful. From the light of the brightest moon, to those often startling first rays of sun in the morning, the Dark Room technology blocks out 98.4% of it, creating a relaxing place to rest your head, even in the most remote places. And the enclosed 10×5- foot screen room at the front of the tent is very useful in many different ways. It eliminates the issue of where to stash your dirty/muddy hiking boots at night. Instead of bringing the mess inside of the tent, store them in the screen room where they’re still covered from the elements and still safely zipped up inside of the tent. The screen room also provides an additional barrier from pesky bugs. It also provides early risers with a dry enclosed space separate from anyone still trying to catch some zzz’s to get ready for the day and appreciate the sunrise. The tent’s design also includes awnings over the windows of the tent, which provide an extra element of protection from rain or unwanted rays of sun that don’t understand the dent you put in the beer cooler last night…

Cons: Don’t get me wrong, this tent is pretty durable, but while putting it together for the second time, I managed to splinter part of the fiberglass piece of the pole while attempting to lengthen the pieces of the condensed version from the bag. Nothing major, and nothing that affected the assembly during the rest of set up, but I imagine the small issue on one of the most vital parts of the tent could potentially turn into a pretty big problem down the road.

Where I Took It: On a camping road trip up the very wet Pacific Coast Highway from San Francisco, CA to southern Washington.

POSTCARDS FROM THE WEEKEND: ROAD TRIPPING THROUGH NATIONAL PARKS

TYRA SUTAKAUGUST 15, 2016

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Driving through Yellowstone National Park made me a little sad, as I had a feeling that it would. The wonderful childhood memories I had of exploring the notorious national park still linger in the vault of family camping trips I took as a kid. As an adult finishing out the last leg of long road trip through the western United States, driving through Yellowstone wasn’t exactly the fastest way to get to Boulder, Colorado from Missoula, Montana, but those memories from the past started leaking out of the vault, and before I knew it, I found myself following the ample signage into park’s northern entrance. While I waited in the long line to enter the park, smoke from a nearby wildfire muted the landscape around me. I drove deeper into the park, passing cars filled with families snapping photos on their smartphones of particularly scenic views or of the small amount of wildlife brave enough to venture out of the safety and quietude of the trees during the mid-morning traffic in the park. It wasn’t until I emerged from the south entrance of Yellowstone and entered the colorful and lively Grand Teton National Park that I really started to enjoy the drive. Delicate wildflowers of yellows and pinks and purples lined the roads through the park, leading up to the majestic, still snow-brushed peaks of the aptly named Grand Tetons. Families left their cars behind and enjoyed the trails and waters and all-around beauty of the park–making memories with their children to be added into that special vault of family memories.

5 WAYS TO SHUT DOWN A NATURAL LANDMARK

5 WAYS TO SHUT DOWN A NATURAL LANDMARK

TYRA SUTAKJULY 31, 2016

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Natural landmarks. They’re pretty cool. So cool, people of all ages and sizes, fans of the great outdoors and nature-haters alike are flocking towards them—cramming into their parking lots and vying to get that money social media shot. Ironically, the premise of the National Natural Landmark program in the U.S., is conservation. Natural places deemed the best examples of biological and geological features typically get slapped with a recognition plaque from the government in hopes of highlighting and preserving the country’s natural heritage. When you see that fancy plaque, you better get your smart phone out because you know you’re about to gain at least five followers on Instagram. But instead of inspiring appreciation and care for these amazing natural wonders, the seal of approval for a place to be added to the National Registry of Natural Landmarks has become more of a death sentence—with once scenic and accessible natural beauty replaced with hourly shuttle visits and for some—the constant threat of being shut down.

But screw it—in the end—it’s really about that blowing up your Twitter following, amirite? And once you snap a photo of your favorite natural landmark, it’s pretty much no good to you anymore. (Repeat photos on social media or so taboo.) It probably makes the most sense just to get them all shut down so the Secretary of the Interior can give us a new checklist of sweet places to test out our new DSLRs and photo filters. Not sure how to get a natural landmark shut down? It’s pretty easy. Here are five tips to help you out.

1.) Leave the Trail

Park Rangers hate this one! But it’s really no big deal. If you see signs that say things like, “Stay on the trail! Shortcutting causes erosion!” Or, “Please Stay on the Trail — Revegetation in Process.” Those signs are mostly just suggestions. Go wherever you want. See that insanely clear, pure alpine lake in the distance? Go take a dip! Maybe fill up that tiny, mostly empty Gatorade bottle you’ve been carrying around in it. After all, it’s not your fault you already drank all of the water you brought on your hike. How were you supposed to know it was a moderate, two-hour hike?

2.) Don’t Respect the Animals

Ugh… animals are the worst. Doesn’t that bear know that he’s photo-bombing your sick Snapchat? Well, since he’s there, you might as well get closer and snap a selfie. It’s the only logical thing to do. See that deer grazing on the trail? That grass looks pretty nasty. You should probably share some of your energy bar with it. How can you call yourself an animal lover if you sit back and let that deer starve to death on fresh green grass? When you finally get out of this god-forsaken rugged land, you deserve a medal.

3.) Leave Your Trash

Lugging your empty plastic water bottles and boxes from the smashed cold cut you ate for lunch is so cumbersome. Like, who has time for that. Just leave it on the side of the trail. Granola bar wrappers? Toss those out, too. Someone will probably pick it up. If not, chances are, it’ll just blow itself straight into a trash or recycling bin. Don’t even worry about it. I mean, in such a busy place, why are there not trash cans lining that 1.5-mile nature trail that you just suffered through? Pretty thoughtless, if you ask me.

4.) Be an Asshole

This one is pretty self-explanatory, but if you need some ideas on how to execute, we’ve got you covered. First, pick a fight with a stranger at the trailhead. That last parking spot in the lot was totally yours, and you better fight for it. If you end up losing the fight, just park anywhere, like on the side of the highway, or blocking traffic on the road leading to the trailhead. Second, bring your dog. Especially on a super busy trail surrounded by a delicate eco-system. Shoot, let Fido off the leash! He’ll definitely have more fun that way. And like most signage at the trailhead, that poster that says “No Dogs Allowed” is also just a suggestion. Like the majority of the rules out there, this one doesn’t apply to you. And lastly, stop in the middle of the trail every five minutes to take photos. That will definitely piss off the other hikers around you enough to start a mini brawl.

5.) Don’t Educate Yourself

How hard is a visit to one of the 600 National Natural Landmarks anyway, right? Not that hard. There’s no need to check the parking situation before you go. Also, don’t worry about checking the length or the difficulty of the hike. People do it all of the time! Should be a breeze. No need to wear the proper footwear or bring water, the government says the place is cool, so just go with it. And definitely don’t check to see what the natural surroundings are like. Preserving an incredibly delicate eco-system? Not as important as finally getting to use the #nature hashtag. And to the people you meet out there actually enjoying nature and doing the opposite of everything on this list? You know what to do: Shut. It. Down.

Spirit Hound Distillers Makes Good On A Promise

Four years ago, the Lyons distillery promised barrels of straight-malt whiskey to prospective investors. Now, the long wait is over.

BY

• TYRA SUTAK

JULY 26 2016, 9:30 AM

Four years ago, the Lyons distillery promised barrels of straight-malt whiskey to prospective investors. Now, the long wait is over.

Funding a dream as big as opening a distillery in a spirited state like Colorado isn’t easy—or cheap. For that reason, the team behind Lyons-based Spirit Hound Distillers got crafty when securing the final funding needed to make that dream a reality. Taking a page from the wine industry, Spirit Hound launched a successful “Whiskey Futures Program” just before opening to the public in 2012. In exchange for up-front funding, the five co-owners offered claims to 50 different barrels of the distillery’s inaugural batches of straight-malt whiskey. The catch? The investors would have to wait to receive their booze until the spirit reached its peak in the aging process. Just this month, that whiskey finally hit the two-year mark and is now ready to be distributed.

For Spirit Hound co-owner, Wayne Anderson, “friends and family” includes the owners and CEOs of the some of the largest liquor stores across the Front Range. Anderson, a longtime member of the craft beer industry and former national sales manager of Oskar Blues Brewery, dug through his phone list, dialing up old friends at a handful of Colorado liquor stores that might be willing to bet on his exciting new distillery venture. “They were gambling four years ago,” Anderson says. “They really supported us in the beginning, and we’re happy to be able to make good on our end of the bargain.”

In the end, five liquor stores participated in Spirit Hound’s “Whiskey Futures Program.” Spirit Hound’s crafted whiskey has since been maturing in barrels for two years—the standard amount of aging time for straight whiskey. On July 11, Anderson and his team delivered several cases to three of those supportive liquor stores: Argonaut Wine & Liquor, Superior Liquor, and Boulder Liquor Mart. Each store’s shipment was unique to the specific barrel it laid claim to with financial support four years ago.

“For us, it was mostly about Colorado businesses, and some good people, and supporting Colorado brands,” says Ron Vaughn, co-owner and CEO of Argonaut. “Last week, we went up to Lyons to taste our barrel of whiskey, and it had such great flavor.” The finished product is cask strength, meaning that it is undiluted with water and bottled at an ABV of around 62 percent. The resulting whiskey may be strong, but it's also smooth, buttery, and filled with subtle caramel notes.

If you're ready to sample some of that cask-strength goodness yourself, don’t head to the Spirit Hound distillery in Lyons—you won’t find it. Instead, grab a bottle at Argonaut, Superior Liquor, or Boulder Liquor Mart. Boulder-based Hazel’s Beverage World will receive its limited supply of store-unique bottles in early 2017. As for Wilbur’s Total Beverage of Fort Collins? Well, that outpost plans to let its portion of the spirit continue to barrel age until further notice.

Easy Mountain Escape: Glenwood Springs, Colorado

Glenwood Springs has as much small-town charm and outdoor recreation as its neighbor, Aspen, but at a fraction of the cost. The city is known for its rust-colored facade, brushed with an abundance of greenery, and well-maintained historical buildings, and its location near the Colorado River lends itself to water sports, hiking, and more.

Plus, its small size makes it easy to navigate the city center and eat your way through its many restaurants and bars. Whether you’re taking a dip in the healing hot springs, sipping 1920s-inspired cocktails, or going on a good old-fashioned outdoor adventure, Glenwood Springs is the perfect place for a proper mountain-town escape.

What to Do

Facebook/Glenwood Adventure Company 

With an abundance of outdoor recreation opportunities at your fingertips, getting outside and exploring is a must. The Glenwood Adventure Company is a one-stop-shop for everything from white water rafting on the Colorado River to horseback riding, hiking, and fly fishing. After working up a sweat, cool off with a house-brewed award-winning craft beer from the Glenwood Canyon Brewpub. For dinner, head to The Pullman for locally inspired dishes like lamb sirloin, grass-fed burgers, and roasted natural chicken; or get your pasta fill at family-run Italian Underground Ristorante, which is known for its linguine in clam sauce and fettuccine alfredo.

For brunch, post up on the patio of newcomer Smoke Modern Barbeque for comfort foods like fried okra, pulled pork, and ribs. After fueling up, take a stroll through Glenwood Springs’ charming downtown and stop in one of the many galleries in the area. Hop on the 10-minute tram ride to see sweeping views of the Roaring Fork Valley and get to the Glenwood Caverns Adventure Park. Located high above the city, the unique adventure park is home to popular attractions like a cliff-hanging roller coaster, a giant canyon swing, a 4D Motion Theater, laser tag, and more. And be sure to save time for a cave tour. Glenwood Caverns Adventure Park offers three guided underground walking tours that highlight the area’s history and unique landscape.

Where to Stay

Glenwood Springs/Tyra Sutak 

A trip to Glenwood Springs wouldn’t be complete without taking a moment to savor a refreshing cocktail or other adult beverage on the picturesque outdoor veranda of the Hotel Colorado. A popular destination among celebrities in the early 1900s, the iconic hotel is still one of the top places to stay in town. Located a stone’s throw from Glenwood’s historic downtown area, the “Grand Dame of the Rockies” still offers a selection of rooms that start around $190 per night during the busy season. Across the street, you’ll find the famed Glenwood Hot Springs Pool which is known for its healing mineral waters and spa. If you want a hotel that has a historic feel with a more modern touch, The Hotel Denver is the place for you. Opened in 1915, the hotel retains its old-world charm, but modern updates give it the best of both worlds. Nightly rates begin at $139, and although it’s a quiet place to stay, the hotel is only a short walk from the best dining, shopping, and nightlife attractions in the city.

Getting There

Glenwood Springs/Tyra Sutak 

Glenwood Springs is about a three hours by car from Denver International Airport. There is also shuttle service via the Colorado Mountain Express, which operates round-trip between the airport to the Roaring Fork Valley. For a real adventure, take the Amtrak — which links the historic train station in Glenwood Springs to and from just about every major city in the U.S., and offers a wonderful, scenic view along the way.

COLORADO CROONERS, BONNIE & THE CLYDES, EXPLORE A SOFTER SIDE IN FOURTH STUDIO ALBUM

TYRA SUTAKJULY 5, 2016

GO OUTSIDETRAIL MIX1 COMMENT

Sometimes in life, you come across people who seem to have it all figured out — the direction the path they wander leads and a good grasp on the role they were born to play in this great big world.

Bonnie Sims, powerhouse front-woman of Colorado-based americana band, Bonnie & the Clydes, is one of those people. Along with her award-winning guitarist husband Taylor, and the rest of the Clydes, Bonnie has been spreading a powerful blend of fresh, local country music through venues in the state of Colorado and beyond.

Though small in stature, Sims’ vocals and original lyrics are anything but tiny. With a big voice that radiates from stages of all shapes and sizes, Sims and her gang of talented musicians have garnered quite the following — from big city venues to small town gems — the arsenal of fans that pack in to see this dynamic five-piece band seems to grow every day.

Since 2010, Bonnie & the Clydes have been making and recording music, releasing three studio albums from 2010 to 2015 featuring a mix of foot-stomping country cover songs and a handful of originals penned by Bonnie and Taylor. The band’s 2014 album Music for the People: Part I is an ode to classic country music and full of two-step tempos you’d find drifting through old-timey dance halls. And while country roots run deep in Bonnie & the Clydes’ sound, the band’s latest album Dear Somebody shows off a softer and more thoughtful side of the group.

“Our genre has shifted from starting out as a classic country cover band and doing a lot of western swing stuff, to being more of an americana/country rock band and incorporating a lot of modern day stuff that we listen to into our songwriting,” says Sims. “We’re growing up. For me songwriting is really personal. I tell my own stories. Being more honest in our songwriting has allowed us to be more honest in our music.”

Bonnie & the Clydes’ fourth studio album, Dear Somebody.

While the eleven-song album composed of all original songs still showcases Sims’ classic country sass and incredible voice, the new tunes shine a light on important topics threaded into our society today.

“It’s about humans, and people in general,” Sims explains. “It’s about whatever you build, one day it’s going to come down. It’s about bigger truths in life and helping myself think about it all with music.”

Inspired by an experience encouraging kids to get along while teaching at a summer camp, Sims wrote the wistful tune, “I’m So Glad We Don’t Walk Alone.” With a catchy and nostalgic melody of gently strumming strings guiding the way, Sims’ haunting voice tells a beautiful story of the good still in this world. Bonnie Sims is credited for writing eight of the eleven songs on the album, and husband Taylor claims credit on the remaining three original songs, which are infused with a little more twang and fun lyrics that the greats like Willie Nelson would approve of. “I Get High,” Taylor Sims’ light-hearted song featuring long-time pedal steel guitar player, Glenn Taylor, will lodge itself in your head on repeat. And subtle love letters from and to both halves of the influential musical couple charmingly reverberate through the album.

If Bonnie & the Clyde’s new sound encompasses what it means to grow up, I’m on board. Catch the Front Range favorites this Sunday at the Copper Mountain Music Festival (July 8 through 10) and visit www.bonnieandherclydes.com to download the band’s latest album.

#RVLIFE: PART I

Getting rid of all of my earthy possessions and moving into an RV wasn’t the dumbest thing I’d ever done. Shoot, it wasn’t even the craziest idea that I’d had that week. But once those wheels on the crazy train started turning, I couldn’t stop them. I was doing this. Before I knew it, I was letting strangers from Craigslist canvas the contents of my spacious Boulder, CO apartment—watching them leave with things I’d spent the past decade accumulating. What I couldn’t sell, I donated. I was determined that it all had to go, and once the last box was removed from my old digs and the keys returned to my old (and curmudgeonly) landlord, the first wave of panic set in. The second wave came crashing over me when I truly realized the actual square-footage of closet space I had to work with in my new 400 square-foot home on wheels. It’s a sad game of real life “would you rather” when the time comes to decide which articles of clothing and shoes will end up on the twelve hangers and in the three drawers available in your new home. As I packed away all of the hangers that I would no longer need, it really hit me. #RVLife wasn’t just a cool hashtag I could use on Instagram, it was my life.

Night one in the RV was pretty peaceful, that is until I woke up in the middle of the night unsure if a psycho serial killer was actually driving off in my RV with me in tow, or if it was just a dream. (Author’s Note: It was in fact just a dream.) Night two in the RV, cocky from a mostly good night’s sleep, I decided to break in my tiny RV kitchen—which resulted in a burnt frozen pizza and a wailing smoke alarm—an accomplishment that I wasn’t aware was possible in such a small and quaint space. In the month since making the big move to RV-living, I’ve learned a lot. Like to never leave your mouth open when opening the roof vents for air. And bugs? They like RV-living, too. Big ones, small ones—RV Life is very inviting. Two weeks ago, I learned the most important lesson yet: never leave the screen door open. Like, never. Because when you do, you’ll wake up in the morning to a large, angry wasp charging through your bedroom, which will most likely lead to you making a fool out of yourself falling through the front door of your RV in your pajamas while people passing by point and stare.

But it hasn’t all been bad. Breaking the connection with things that really had no meaning in my life has allowed me to make better connections with the things that do matter to me—like travel, family and the great outdoors. Without a mortgage or rent payment, I have more money in my bank account, something a vagabond freelance writer rarely has the opportunity to say. And I found solitude and the peace and quiet I’d been searching for in the mountains of Colorado, and an overwhelming sense to take only what I need and do my part to take care of this planet. My water and energy usage is down. My time spent outdoors is up. All in all, it’s been a good move.

At the end of the day, I’m in it for at least a year. Who knows, after 365 days, I might be crawling back to the city on my hands and knees, begging civilization and normalcy to take me back. And maybe I’ll live out the rest of my days drinking from tiny plastic bottles of wine and eating burnt pizza off of my RV dining room table/desk which conveniently folds into a guest bed.

There’s really no telling where the future will take me. I guess that’s the beauty of it all.

Explore the Shipwrecks of Lake Michigan

A century ago, Lake Michigan was a freshwater freeway, connecting major cities like Chicago, Milwaukee, and Wisconsin’s Green Bay. But the notorious storms of the Great Lakes region often made for a tumultuous passage. Today, the lake — the fifth largest in the world — is home to roughly 1,500 documented shipwrecks, serving as haunting reminders of the past. Explore them this summer by jumping on board one of these unique tours.

Door County, Wisconsin

Located between Lake Michigan and the waters of Green Bay, Door County got its name from the early French explorers and Native Americans who referred to the narrow, dangerous strait between the Door Peninsula and Washington Island as Porte des Morts, which translates literally to “Door of the Dead.” The county claims more than 300 miles of shoreline, which is riddled with the skeletons of ships that date back to the mid-1800s. To explore them, try one of the clear bottom kayak shipwreck tours, like the one from Gravity Trails ($55 per person), which leads you past shipwrecks visible through the shallow waters of North Bay. For a closer look, check out the Snorkeling Adventure Shipwreck Trip offered by Lakeshore Adventures. For $60 per person, explorers can dive down to the Frank O’Connor — a 300-foot wooden ship that sank just off the coast of Cana Island in 1919. Perhaps the most unique way to see the shipwrecks of Lake Michigan is by air. Grizzly Scenic Air Tours offer daily tours from May 1 to October 31 that give a bird’s-eye view of lakeside shipwrecks along with the other colorful scenery of Door County. A 70-minute tour for three sightseers will run you just under $300 total.

Traverse City, Michigan

With beautiful beaches and an emerging food scene, Traverse City is becoming the ideal weekend getaway. But don’t be fooled by its laidback, small-town vibe; Traverse City is home to plenty of adventures — most of which can be found on the glassy waters of Lake Michigan. Paddle Away Tours offers guided excursions by kayak to see shipwrecks and the lake’s majestic lighthouses. For a more in-depth look, the folks at Scuba Northoffer training and certifications for divers of all levels to be able to explore areas like the Grand Traverse Bay Underwater Preserve. Among the many ships that rest there, the most memorable is the Metropolis, a 125-foot schooner that was lost in a snowstorm in 1886 and ran aground near the Old Mission Point.

Frank O’Connor Shipwreck

Chicago, Illinois

Although Chicago is brimming with attractions, the shipwreck tour offered by Windy City Diving is among the most interesting ways to learn about Chicago’s maritime past. More people have lost their lives off of the shores of Chicago than anywhere else on the Great Lakes. Many of those shipwrecks are entombed in shallow waters, making dive trips incredibly accessible. Windy City offers trips to area wrecks like the Thomas Hume, a lumber-hauling schooner that went missing in 1891, and the Wings of Wind, a wooden schooner that sank in 1866 following a collision on the lake. Today, the latter ship rests in only 40 feet of water and provides exceptional photo opportunities for adventure-seekers.

Milwaukee, Wisconsin

The waters off the shores of Milwaukee, Wisconsin are home to more than 10 shipwrecks. Sign up for a diving trip with Milwaukee-based Shipwreck Explorers, and you can visit wrecks ranging from wooden steamers and barges to diesel yachts and car ferries. The Prins Willem V, known as the “Willie” — which sunk in 1954 and lies intact about 80 feet underwater — has penetrations possible for experienced divers. For die-hard adventurers, Shipwreck Explorers also includes Expedition Dives, which reach depths of 300 feet and include a chance to discover unchartered territory alongside the crew.